Edsel Hood Latch
1st Row : Shows latch just before
soaking, after a quick once over with a wire brush.
2nd Row : Shows the same latch after 3 days of soaking and a quick brush
3rd Row : One week after the last check, and ten days after the start.
*This latch has some old paint on it. Since the Molasses does not eat
paint, it remains on the part and in this case gives the latch a "mottled"
1978 Mustang II E-Brake
1st Row : Shows the original lever
with a quick brush just before soaking.
2nd Row : Shows the same lever after 3 days of soaking. A good amount
of light rust is now gone.
3rd Row : Total of ten days in the molasses.
*Planning on putting this lever in my 1969 Mustang Coupe. Might as well
clean it up while the body work is in progress.
1959 Edsel Fuel Level
This is a second FLS from a parts car.
It is in exactly the same condition as the first FLS unit. Used as a
1st Row : Shows the FLS after a quick scraping with a small screwdriver
to remove the gasoline residue.*Note the right image is potential broken
2nd Row : Shows the same FLS after 3 days in the Molasses. Some stubborn
rust remains, but the parts are coming along.
3rd Row : Ten days after the start of the experiment and look at them
*ALL OF THESE PARTS FIT INTO A 1 GALLON WINDSHIELD WASHING SOLUTION
**Noted: I did not wash these parts with soap
and water, and they did not seem to rust as quickly as the other times.
My theory is that washing with detergent or soap actually speeds up
the rust process, so if possible, skip it unless necessary!
Conclusion: It is apparent to me that
scraping the largest bits of rust off in advance will help reduce the
amount of time needed to remove the rust. Also, it seems clear that
brushing after a dya or two will also reveal the rust and allow the
molasses to do its job.
While there are other, faster methods of removing rust, molasses easily
trumps them in several important areas, excepting time.
Be sure to look back here for more information on another favorite derusting
method of mine: Electrolysis!